I’ve surfed for the better part of my life. About 25 years now. I’ve traveled to the far ends of the world in search of an empty line up and a well-shaped wave. I’ve spent piggy banks of coin on boards, accessories, air fare, un-airconditioned bungalows and skimpy plates of rice and beans all for a chance to ride a mound of water to the sand. Coming from Florida, we settle for less than optimal conditions during most of the year. We fight through the summer doldrums and stare at swell forecasts day after day through the months of August and September, in hopes of a plentiful hurricane season. All for what? What is the allure of surfing? What draws us into that water like a monk’s pilgrimage for enlightenment? At times, I really question if surfing is a sport. I mean, sure it involves calorie burning activity and a pro arena of global competition… But, ask any surfer…it’s so much more than that.
Its the hunt, the process, the victory, the defeat, the challenge, the lesson, the flow, the stillness, the solitude, the camaraderie. It’s like a breath of air, in and out…and most importantly, necessary.
Sometimes we don’t need to know why.
I took a trip to the Oregon coast the last time I was out there with my good friend, Steve, from Portland. The process of surfing really hit me on this trip. I realized how the journey does indeed match up to the destination. We woke up early, packed the car and set off. I carried my camera along to document our “process”.
It was about 8:45am when we finally got in the water. Over 3 hrs from when we left. But, really the surfing started the moment we planned the trip. Find your surfing and enjoy the moments that make up the process.